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ADVENTURE RUNNING

(OR DOUBLE CROSSING THE GRAND CANYON)

WOW! Our first view on this trip to the Grand Canyon took our breath away. Little did we know that in less than 12 hours, it would take our breath away in a literal sense—at least for five of the six of us. My wife, Betty, said she was the only sane one in our group. The flight attendants on our flight agreed with her. Betty came along just to enjoy the trip and enjoy one of God’s wonders. And she did enjoy the trip. Except for that one night. But I am getting ahead of myself.

Adventure running can be anything you want it to be. It can be non-competitive, where there is no organized event. Or it can be an organized event in a locale you choose to visit. Two examples of the latter were the Skagway to Whitehorse Relay and the Jasper/Banff Relay. Both were wonderful events shared with great friends. An adventure run does not have to be in some far away location. Several of us, including Eb Englemann, the king of adventure running, are planning several adventure runs within 100 miles of Salem.

But let’s get back to our Grand Canyon Double Crossing Run. The double crossing is just what it says: you run from the South Rim (at over 7,000 feet) down into the canyon and across the Colorado River, and up to the North Rim (over 8,000 feet), turn around and retrace your steps. Now you can go north to south, but it involves driving about 214 miles to get there. This year’s double crossing was a repeat for Eb, and Joe Dana, a Salem runner who moved to Arizona. Hearing their adventures of the first double crossing whetted the appetite of a few of us trail runners. Gary Parcher, Lee Fields, and I made up the rest of the group.

As we looked into the canyon that afternoon, we planned the route we would run the next morning. We decided that we would start our adventure at the South Kaibab Trailhead at Yaki Point. We would run down the South Kaibab Trail to the Phantom Ranch, up the Bright Angel Creek Trail to Roaring Springs, and then assault the North Rim on the North Kaibab Trail. Once at the top, we would retrace our steps as far as the Phantom Ranch and then return to the top of the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail. While the Bright Angel Trail added about a mile and a half, it also provided several water sources—critical in this country, and the South Kaibab had none. We decided on a 2:00 a.m. start. So, an early dinner and early to bed was planned.

Unfortunately, the excitement got to me and I slept less than an hour all night. Betty drove us to the trailhead. A kiss for good luck (only for me) and a wave goodbye, and our adventuresome group was left with only the small beams of our flashlights to keep back the very black night. The lights bobbing down the trail gave an ethereal affect to our adventure. Dawn found us at the Phantom Ranch, but our group had already come apart. Somehow, during the night, Gary had become separated from the rest of us. Joe decided to go back to look for Gary while the rest of us continued on up the Bright Angel Canyon. The beauty in the canyon was breath-taking: the sunrise, the canyon walls, the streams, the many varieties of cactus complete with blossoms, added so much to our adventure. Eb and Lee set a steady pace. I surprised myself by keeping up with them (first mistake). I figured that I was the slowest of our group so my plan was to run my own pace. But it was fun running with them, so I did. (An old running axiom: plan your run and stick to your plan.) It worked until we got about one third of the way up to the top of the North Rim. And then Eb and Lee steadily pulled ahead. When I was almost to the top of the North Rim, Joe caught up with me. He said Gary was about 15 minutes behind.

Just as I approached the top, I met Eb, Lee and Joe coming back down. They were fine but informed me that there was no water at the trailhead on the North Rim. They continued on down the trail and I finished my struggle to the top. In a few more minutes I made it. What an exhilarating feeling! It was a wonderful feeling of accomplishment. And then I walked right to the coolest, freshest water of the whole trip. So much for Lewis and Clark, a.k.a. Joe, Eb, and Lee. After some water and a short rest I started back down. (Newsflash for those not versed in this kind of adventure: Running downhill at this stage is not much more fun than running uphill!) But at least it was a little better. I met Gary on my return trip and agreed to wait for him at the next spring. Gary didn’t show for almost an hour. I was convinced that he had hitched a ride back to the South Rim, so I started to head on down the trail just as he showed up. So we continued our trip back to the South Rim. The trip back was much harder. Reality replaced the earlier excitement. Dust and heat became our constant companion.

About 6:00 p.m., we completed our death march into the Phantom Ranch hoping to catch Joe, Eb and Lee. Joe and Eb had left earlier, but Lee had waited longer trying to get his stomach to settle. It seems that Lee had left only minutes before Gary and I arrived at the ranch. Gary and I continued on, hoping to soon finish our adventure. Dark caught us part way up the Bright Angel Trail. We were almost to the halfway point, Indian Garden Campground, when Gary began to dehydrate severely. Even at night, the canyon is no place to have hydration problems. The only option was to return to the Phantom Ranch to see about getting Gary a ride out the next morning on one of the mule trains which daily ply the canyon trails.

By the time we got back to the Phantom Ranch, everyone was in bed and the lights were off. I made a quick phone call to Betty at 10:30 p.m. to let her know that rumors of my demise were greatly exaggerated. Yes, there was a phone booth in the bottom of the canyon. I had no phone card. I did have a $5.00 bill, but it would not fit into the payphone. The operator finally felt sorry for me (I think the crying and sobbing tipped her in my favor) and connected me with civilization. But first she asked if I had tried 911. I said in the most respectful tone I could muster after 20 hours on the trail, "Lady I am 10 miles from the nearest road, in the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Who will respond down here?" After a few moments of silence, she agreed that 911 was not a viable option. So the quick call at least told Betty not to cash in my insurance policy just yet. She did indicate that none of the others had made it out yet. That surprised me. The only bench I could find in the dark proved to be very hard. Throughout the night, rolling on the cactus spines which I had acquired while stumbling around in the dark looking for the bench, made sleep very fleeting at best.

About 4:30 a.m., I got tired of trying to convince my body that we could sleep on that bench in spite of the cactus. I woke Gary to let him know I was going to finish this thing once and for all. Gary said that he felt much better and was ready to try again. We made it out to about where we had turned around the night before and Gary began to dehydrate again. I am sure it was the blistering pace I was setting! Anyway, after a short conference we decided to part company—Gary returning to the ranch, and I hopefully making it to the top of the South Rim.

Suffice it to say, "I made it!" It was anything but pretty. At one point some people suggested they send the rangers after me. I was not sure whether they meant the Texas Rangers, or the Park Rangers. I convinced them I was OK. I am sure I looked a bit ragged by this time, although the picture taken at the top shows otherwise. I cannot remember a more difficult event. Seeing Betty, Eb, and Lee (especially Betty) at the top of the South Rim was the most beautiful sight of the whole trip. I figure with the backtracking to the Ranch in the middle of the night I traveled about 52 miles, give or take 100. While Betty was saying, "You will never do that again!" I was already figuring what I would do differently next time. Yes, a rerun is definitely in my plans. And Betty has softened her position too. But she has been talking with the insurance agent lately.

A double crossing of the Grand Canyon is not for everyone. But adventure running at some level may be exactly what you have been looking for to add spice to your running program. And sharing it with friends makes it a real joy. Give it a try, but watch out for the double-crossers.

Rob Rickard